Technical mastery •
A tourbillon watch is a highly sought-after and intricate type of mechanical timepiece that features a mechanism called a "tourbillon." It is a French word that means “whirlwind”, which perfectly describes its hypnotic motion. Originally developed to improve the precision of pocket watches, the tourbillon has carried over to modern-day wristwatches and become a hallmark of high horology, symbolizing quality craftsmanship, mastery of micromechanics, and luxury.
Abraham Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1795, but it wasn’t patented until 1801. Breguet sought a way to eliminate the negative effects of gravity caused by keeping a watch in a single position for an extended amount of time, as was the case with pocket watches suspended from their chains. He theorized that by placing the watch's escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, constantly in motion, the positional errors would average out over time.
Identifying a tourbillon watch is pretty easy if you know what to look for. Most tourbillon watches showcase the tourbillon mechanism on the dial side, often through an open aperture or a skeletonized design. The constant movement and rotation are distinctive features. High-end watches highlight their tourbillons with excellent finishing and decorative elements to draw attention to their complexity.
Essentially, a tourbillon is a movement that uses a rotating cage to help combat the forces of gravity which can affect timekeeping. The watch's escapement, balance wheel, and hairspring all sit within a cage that rotates roughly once per minute. Naturally, the rotation affects the escapement but because the rotation is circular, all variations are cancelled. A good way to think about the need for a tourbillon is to consider traditional watch movements that have been adjusted to various positions. These adjustments attempt to balance out the affects on the escapement of placing a watch in a different position. The tourbillon counteracts and eliminates the need for these adjustments. Considering the amount of time it takes to create a tourbillon watch due to the number of precision-finished components that most operate in sync, it’s no wonder that the tourbillon is one of the most expensive movements.
The short answer is yes! However, automatic and manual winding tourbillons exist. Therefore, like any mechanical watch, the answer depends.
Absolutely not. Tourbillons are mechanical movements and, therefore, depend on traditional watchmaking principles.
Flying Tourbillon: Invented in 1920 by Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon eliminates the upper bridge, allowing the mechanism to appear as if it is floating. This enhances the watch’s visual appeal by providing an unobstructed view of the rotating cage.
Double-Axis Tourbillon: This type features two axes of rotation, adding another layer of complexity to the design. The multi-axis rotation offers superior precision and an even more dynamic visual effect.
Triple-Axis Tourbillon: Similar to the tri-axial tourbillon but with distinct engineering, this mechanism rotates on three independent axes, achieving unparalleled gravitational compensation and visual drama.
Gyrotourbillon: Developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the gyrotourbillon is a multi-axis tourbillon housed in a spherical cage. It combines technical sophistication with captivating aesthetics.
Double and Quadruple Tourbillons: These mechanisms use multiple tourbillon cages, either working independently or connected through differential gearing. The additional tourbillons enhance precision and underscore the watch’s engineering mastery.
The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon collection represents the pinnacle of the brand’s modern watchmaking. These watches blend the classical design and architecture of the distinctive Maestro case with the sophistication of the tourbillon mechanism. The unique "smile" at 6 o'clock in the Maestro case is a natural shape to host the tourbillon cage. Known for their distinctive cases and bold aesthetics, the Maestro 9.0 models showcase the tourbillon at its finest, with exceptional finishing and attention to detail.
The Maestro 9.0 is a modern take on legendary designer Gerald Genta’s Flying Tourbillon watch from 2005. Currently, it is available in four variants with 316L stainless steel cases that measure 39mm wide by 41.7mm long. The thickness is just 9mm, an important detail that highlights the precision watchmaking at hand. Gerald Charles offers a steel model with a blue sunburst dial, a variant with a hand-hammered 18K rose gold dial, and gem-set options with a diamond or sapphire bezel. The watches come with either a dark blue textured rubber strap or a hand-stitched alligator strap. For a watch with such an exquisite mechanical movement, all Maestro 9.0 watches are water resistant to 100 meters.
The newest model in the Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 collection is the Roman Tourbillon in White Gold, launched in January 2025. Limited to just 50 pieces, each watch uses the impressive Swiss Manufacture caliber 9.0. It is comprised of 196 pieces, including a 22K 4N gold oscillating rotor. The tourbillon cage itself is made of lightweight titanium, a challenging material to work with, while the tourbillon burdges are made from 18K yellow gold. The result is a marvel that has a frequency of 28,800vph with 50 hours of power reserve. Other parts of the movement are also beautiful to view. It features diamond-polished anglage (the angles applied to the edges of the movement plates and bridges) and vertical striping known as Côtes de Genève.
On the wrist, the watch wears beautifully. The watch case may not be traditional, but it blends into the wrist perfectly. Plus, with a rubber strap, the visible tourbillon, and fine case work, it can easily work with both formalwear and more casual clothing. Legibility is also a strong suit for the Maestro 9.0 with its luminous blued handset and hour indices, which contrast perfectly against the hand-hammered white gold dial. And, the tourbillon cage adds an extra dash of practicality because it displays the running seconds with a small indicator.
A tourbillon is a rare treat and, therefore, choosing the right model is important. Gerald Charles have created the perfect option with their modern masterpiece, the Maestro 9.0. It’s a design that pays tribute to Gerald Genta and adds modern sizing and capabilities. The result is a fantastic timepiece that can be worn daily which is all the better for admiring the mesmerizing tourbillon movement.
Owning a tourbillon watch is special for many reasons. Firstly, a tourbillon is the ultimate horological expression for many watchmakers and allows the watchmaker to display the height of his or her skills. Only the most experienced and talented watchmakers can successfully create a tourbillon movement, which also makes them rare and desirable. Also, a tourbillon is a dazzling wonder to view through the crystal. Whether using the naked eye or a loupe, the tourbillon’s rotating cage is an endlessly changing marvel to behold. There’s really nothing else like it in the mechanical watch world. Finally, when wearing a tourbillon watch, there’s a special and exclusive feeling. It may sound funny, but the complication is so uncommon that it’s likely to never see one in the wild.
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